HAWAII: WHOSE BEACH IS IT, ANYWAY?
All beaches in Hawaii are public. Put a big asterisk here. About 80 percent of the beaches in the islands are easily reached, but for many other gems getting to the beach can be a bit of a hassle.
Some beaches on Oahu and Kauai are military bases, so cross those off. Other beaches have poor access roads, such as Kekaha Kai State Park on the Big Island, eliminating low-clearance rental cars.
Huge chunks of land above beaches on Kauai and Maui have been purchased by big-tech billionaires, and mere multi-millionaires, who have closed historic trails and access roads. Mark Zuckerberg, who turned being socially awkward into a gazillion dollar industry, is building a compound the size of a medieval city on Kauai, but you can still get to his beach via a coastal trail. The same is true for several other beaches.
Kayaks are a sure-fire way to get to a private beach with closed access. However, when public parks are closed for safety reasons or maintenance issues (which can last eons), even being on the beach is forbidden.
Popularity has limited access to beaches like Ke’e Beach on Kauai’s north shore, where a permit and a $35 bus ride is the only way for visitors to get there. State beaches like Hapuna on the Big Island, Makena on Maui (and others) limit nonresidents by charging $30 for a four person vehicle. Access is free or at a greatly reduced price for Hawaii residents. In other popular places, like Waipio Valley on the Big Island, Blue Pool on Maui, and the Hanalei River Trail on Kauai, locals just get fed up with tourists and block access with the tacit approval of public officials.
The final way beach access is limited is at destination resorts, on the Big Island and Maui, which control the number of public access permits or parking spaces to visit the beach on the property.
Trailblazer travel guides, one for each island, provides details on the ins and outs of lawfully getting to beaches that have limited access issues. Included are tips on getting permits and alternate free parking. The guides are full of directions to many beaches that are off the beaten track.
